Growing up, I had no interest in fashion. The closest I ever came to caring about a catwalk was when watching “Zoolander” on Blu-Ray.

As I got older, and the people around me began dressing with intention, I quickly found myself adrift.

Unsure of what suited me, or even where to begin, I turned to the legacy brands.

Gucci, Versace, Dior; Exclusivity, luxury, VIP. I was soon confronted with the bitter reality that dressing like the celebrities I so often saw on magazines, TV and films was unattainable.

It wasn’t just about the money; it was about integrating into a clique culture I wanted no part in.

Like a snake shedding its skin I would meander between styles, never truly comfortable.

That was until I discovered social media, and the plethora of streetwear designers utilising their online communities in their approach to designs.

Like-minded outsiders to the fashion world, equally as frustrated with the status-quo as I was.

Their followings were smaller, but that made them even more personable.

I felt the pressure to conform fade, as it finally felt like the power to shape trends was in the hands of regular people.

What is fashion, if not a form of self-expression? A way to stand-out from the crowd and establish a signature style.

Where once luxury houses held the supreme authority to shape trends and determine what was “In Vogue,” in recent years, we have witnessed a shift back toward these core values.

Magazines, catwalks and exclusive events targeted at the social elite persist, but, as consumers turn to niche, social media-driven brands,
following trends has become more accessible than ever.

Fashion that was tailored to the consumer, not the other way around.

Dating back to the mid-nineteenth century, legacy brands have been unrivalled at the apex of the industry.

With Burberry in England, Louis Vuitton in Paris, and Bulgari in Rome, the world’s fashion capitals were already beginning to establish their dominance over aesthetic trends. Pioneering adventure, curiosity, and innovation as part of their brand identity, classicism became paramount in shaping how the public dressed; clothes were not only symbolic of status, but a reflection of a way of life.

However, the general population was often excluded from participating in the crazes they saw glorified in magazines and on catwalks.

The high-prices and exclusivity of designer wardrobes became an infeasible aspiration, and out of this, emerged a rigid hierarchy, with
grassroots designers falling by the wayside.

With the shift to modernity and the rise of social media, underground designers were able to surface.

Utilising their online platforms to break through the limitations previously enforced on them by the industries’ elite.

Independent creator Amrik Braich is one of these new-wave streetwear influencers and shared his insight as a creator unaffiliated
with legacy fashion houses.

“There’s most definitely gatekeeping within fashion, because it has a reputation of being only for the elite, people who are lower-class aren’t really accepted into that world.

It’s hard to be taken seriously, especially if you are a streetwear brand, it’s a contradiction because a lot of the higher brands take inspiration from us.”

“Visionaries’ World” is Amrik’s brand identity and has garnered the attention of thousands across his social media platforms.

Utilising a distinct monochromatic colour scheme, and the motif of an eye, the label challenges fashion norms, asking the
question “do you see the vision?”

“With my stuff I like to make it my own, I don’t want to rinse and repeat certain trends like other brands – that’s what people are appreciating about my clothes.”

With his audience at the heart of his enterprise, he reinforced the importance of networking and feedback, to refine and innovate his designs.

“I believe in having community, I have a private-page for my brand that includes behind-the-scenes. I post design concepts to see what people think, it’s a good way of gauging that. I’m very open to working with the people who buy my clothes.”

Looking ahead, Amrik considered how the fashion industry might evolve as influencers gain more recognition in the space.

“Runways and high fashion will always be a thing no matter what, even now that social media is more prevalent. But basically anyone can
start a brand now, it became a trend in 2020 and 2021, and I expect it to continue, with people being more influenced by social media.”

Building on Amrik’s point-of-view, I also had the chance to speak with Julian, another emerging designer in the scene.

Going by “kingjjulian” on Instagram, he has also achieved micro-celebrity status, building a niche, yet loyal online following.

He rationalised the challenges he faced as he ventured into the industry as an unintentional consequence of the herd mentality that is rampant in the fashion community.

“I think, like all industries, it’s who you know over who you are. People want to keep their circles tight, so I think gatekeeping is more of a natural unconscious emotion that we can only change by directly looking to address it, both rich and poor.”

Motivated by urban fashion trends to launch his own brand, he stressed the importance of celebrating the charm found in the everyday.

“Although runways can be impressive, I think they’re quite stush in nature and disingenuous. I always look for real human feelings over materialistic trends as one is about championing everything around you, and the other is looking to use you until you’re not required. People look for collectives they feel relate to them both in mainstream and underground cultures, so if you can design something that can champion the people, that’s the first step in changing the world for the better.”

In essence, fashion trends are no longer entirely dictated by the traditional powerhouses.

Whilst it will be a long time before the centuries’ old hierarchy is dismantled, social media’s inclusive, community-first impact has begun to shake its very foundations.

Designers like Amrik and Julian, who have carved out a niche on their respective platforms, have demonstrated that venturing outside the norm is a viable path and, with individuality valued now more than ever, it’s undeniable that the fashion world is evolving.

The power to influence is in the hands of passionate creators whose keen eye is guided by the very people who support them. The future of fashion is a bright one, with the yesterday’s unattainable crazes moving closer in reach of regular people, one outfit at a time.