For millions of women worldwide, beauty isn’t just about makeup or skincare; it’s survival in a world where lighter skin is seen as a ticket to a better life.

Skin bleaching is a multi-billion-pound industry that promises lighter skin and the false belief that it brings status, success and acceptance. But behind the glossy ads and viral TikTok trends lies a darker truth: a heritage of colonialism, colourism and a deep-seated insecurity. Can we free ourselves from the fixation on fairness, or does the beauty industry continue to profit from our insecurities? 

Also known as skin whitening or lightening, skin bleaching is a cosmetic practice that uses creams, soaps, or other products to lighten the skin. This can target specific dark spots or aim to lighten the overall complexion. 

For many, this obsession with lighter skin starts early, as young children are taught that fairness equates to beauty, power and happiness. 

Li Mei, a 23 Chinese Timorese woman, first had her skin bleached when she was just five years old. 

She said she doesn’t recall much of the first few times; she can remember the sharp, medicinal smell of the cream her grandmother rubbed into her arms. The sting that followed and the burning sensation as her skin would tingle, burn and eventually peel off, like layers of her identity. The feeling was the same every time, a mixture of pain and promise, a reminder that her darker skin didn’t feel like it was enough. 

“She told me it would make me beautiful,” Li Mei says: “And I always believed her that if I were pale, life would be easier.” 

According to a report by Grand View Research, the global skin-lightening products market was valued at approximately $9.96 billion (£7.77 billion) in 2021 and is projected to reach $16.42 billion (£12.81 billion) by 2032.

Li Mei quickly learned that her golden-brown skin made her feel out of place growing up. She says: “At home, my family always called me ‘too dark.’ But at school, I wasn’t ‘Asian enough’ for the other Chinese kids, and I never quite fit in with my white peers either. I felt so separated from the world due to the colour of my skin.” 

Skin bleaching is not just a simple personal choice but is deeply ingrained in many cultural practices worldwide. A 2018 study in India found that over half of respondents had used skin-lightening products, with 38% still using them regularly (CNN, 2022). 

This experience is not unique to just one country. In many African nations, such as Nigeria, over 77% of women reported using skin whitening products regularly, driven by the belief that lighter skin equals a social and economic advantage. (WHO) report. 

Li Mei says: “The messages fell everywhere, shelves lined with whitening creams in Asian supermarkets, TV ads, and the unspoken rule that lighter meant better. I grew up with my grandparents, thinking this was the only way. That’s all I ever really knew. Being pale means being high class, refined, and desirable in my culture. Dark skin? That means you’re poor. Uneducated. Lesser.”

The belief in the superiority of lighter skin is deeply ingrained in many cultures across Asia, Africa, the Caribbean, and Latin America. These cultural practices are a result of colonial history. European powers’ conquest and exploitation of vast areas led to a hierarchy where lighter skin was associated with wealth, power, and privilege. This legacy continues to shape contemporary beauty standards.

While marketed as a quick fix to achieve beauty, skin-lightening products often contain harmful chemicals like hydroquinone, mercury, and steroids. These substances can have severe long-term health consequences, ranging from skin cancer to permanent scarring. In some cases, they can even lead to irreversible organ damage. Despite these dangers, such products remain widely available, and millions of women and, increasingly, men continue to use them worldwide.

Li Mei says, “Some days, I wish I were lighter. It’s hard to unlearn something drilled into me since childhood. But I’m trying. I remind myself that my skin isn’t something to erase; it’s part of who I am. I want to love it, even when I don’t know how.”

The beauty industry continues to profit from these deeply rooted insecurities. Skin-lightening products are marketed to achieve a perceived advantage: lighter skin is associated with success, attractiveness, and privilege. 

Yet, this cycle of colourism persists, perpetuating harmful beauty ideals and reinforcing the belief that lighter skin is inherently better.

In response to these entrenched beliefs, resistance is growing. Across the world, women are reclaiming their natural beauty, challenging outdated beauty standards, and redefining what it means to be powerful, confident, and seen. This resistance is helping to create a future where all skin tones are celebrated.

One example of this growing movement is the Unfair & Lovely campaign, which fights against colourism and the harmful obsession with lighter skin. 

Ayesha Khan, 21, a passionate campaigner and advocate for women’s skin health, uses the hashtag #UnfairAndLovely in her posts, creating a supportive space for women marginalised by conventional beauty standards.

“The pressure to lighten skin isn’t just a beauty trend; it’s deeply embedded in centuries of history that still shapes how women see themselves,” Ayesha says: “From a young age, we’re taught to believe that beauty lies in being lighter, that we’d be ‘better’ if we were paler and looked like her. 

“It’s heartbreaking because, for so many women, it’s not just about appearance; it’s about believing we’re not enough as we are. Skin bleaching is not just about beauty; it’s about identity, dignity, and reclaiming our power.”

This movement, fueled by everyday women and activists, is pushing back against harmful standards and working to reshape how beauty is defined. Through campaigns like Unfair & Lovely, women worldwide claim the right to love their natural skin tones and encourage others to do the same.

Despite the growing awareness of the dangers of skin bleaching, millions continue to use whitening products, influenced by deeply ingrained beliefs about beauty. These ideals have roots that stretch back for centuries across different cultures and historical periods. Skin lightening symbolised status, power, and desirability from ancient China to the Roman Empire.

In the 7th century, Empress Wei Zetian of China consumed crushed pearls to achieve a fair complexion, a practice that remains popular among some Chinese women today. 

Similarly, Greek women used to paint their faces with white lead, a highly toxic substance, and this practice was adopted by the Romans, who referred to it as cerussa, as noted by Pliny the Elder.

Cleopatra (69–30 BC), the Queen of the Ptolemaic Kingdom of Egypt, was said to bathe in acidic donkey’s milk to lighten her skin. This beauty ritual also reflected the cultural and societal importance of fairness.

Today, skin lightening is increasingly popular among women, men, and young adults. The beauty industry is slowly beginning to acknowledge this shift as consumers demand products that embrace natural beauty.

Rachel Collins, 28, the store manager at Body Care, a popular UK beauty retailer, has witnessed this change firsthand. With over a decade of experience, she notes a clear shift in customers’ preferences. 

“There was a time when customers came in looking for the lightest products they could find,” Rachel says: “But now, more people are seeking skincare that nourishes and enhances their natural skin, not changes it. It’s a shift towards self-care and self-acceptance, and it’s exciting to witness.”

Racheal says Body Care has adjusted its product lines to feature more inclusive skincare options that promote healthy, glowing skin in all shades. 

“We’ve had to rethink our approach,” Rachel says: “The desire to ‘change’ one’s skin is fading, and people are embracing the beauty of their natural tone.”

This shift is not an isolated phenomenon. Around the globe, a growing movement is rejecting the beauty industry’s focus on fairness as more consumers choose authenticity and inclusivity over conformity. 

Companies are beginning to reconsider how they market beauty, and more people are seeking products that reflect their values of self-love and acceptance.

In the 1900s, skin-lightening products were bluntly marketed as “skin bleaches” or “freckle waxes,” explicitly associating fairness with beauty. 

These products, often containing toxic ingredients like mercury and lead, pose significant health risks. Over time, companies rebranded them as “skin lighteners” or “brighteners,” softening the language but continuing to promote the same harmful ideals.

Colourism continues to elevate light-skinned individuals while devaluing those with darker skin. Its roots are varied: in the U.S., it is tied to the history of slavery and racism; in South Africa, India, and Latin America, it arose from European colonialism and is also rooted in the desire for marriage; and in East Asia, light skin has long been idealised as a symbol of wealth and desirability.

While the beauty industry still profits from ingrained insecurities, the global shift towards embracing all skin tones is undeniable. As more people recognise the harm in striving for unattainable standards, the movement to redefine beauty continues to grow. 

By rejecting harmful beauty ideals and celebrating natural beauty, we move closer to a world where beauty is defined by authenticity, not conformity. This transformation is a trend and a movement rooted in self-acceptance and recognising that true beauty lies in embracing who we are. The power to reshape these standards lies within us as we embrace diversity and champion self-love.

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To read more about the effects of skin bleaching click here.