A manicure isn’t just a beauty treat—it’s a cultural story at your fingertips. From intricate nails and art to a classic buff and polish, the UK’s multiculturalism has shaped how we groom our hands and feet. Join Heritage magazine as we examine how global influences have polished the nation’s nail game.
Nail salons have become a cornerstone of British high streets, and for good reason!
The UK nail industry is not just pretty mani-pedis; it is a multi-million-pound market and an indicator of our society’s appeal to wellness, beauty practices, and self-care.
This market has grown from the roots of cultural diversity and exchange in this country and has attracted those from various ethnic and class backgrounds.
Salons provide a welcoming space where people can come together, share their cultures, and find common ground, allowing them to connect with others they may not have otherwise.
The business of doing nails has attracted people from all walks of life. It has become an accessible means of income for those unable to find work elsewhere, whether it’s because English isn’t their first language or they’ve faced unfair treatment in other industries.
If you’ve popped into a nail salon recently, you’ll notice it’s not just about who’s doing the nails—it’s about getting them done, too. These days, everyone is welcome! Is the businessman getting a trim and buff? Totally normal. Tween getting their first set of acrylics? Take a seat! Many sections of society now enjoy a manicure.
While we’re getting our nails done and chatting away in salons, there’s quite a story behind how we got here. Let’s join Estelle Coulter as she looks into the multicultural journey of the mani we know and love today.
Vietnamese Salons
If you’ve had your nails done, there’s a good chance you’ve visited a Vietnamese-owned nail salon. These salons are found in cities and towns all over the UK and offer beautiful services that won’t break the bank.
The origins of these salons began at the end of the Vietnam War in 1975, when an increasing number of Vietnamese migrants arrived in the UK and the US.
Many of these refugees could not speak English, but they were determined to succeed in their new countries and keen to find opportunities to make a living in the West.
This is where the manicure comes in—during a visit to a Vietnamese refugee camp in California, glamorous Hollywood actress Tippi Headren noticed that the women there were fascinated by her polished nails, and an idea was born.
Tippi arranged for her manicurist to come to the camp and teach the Vietnamese woman the art of the perfect manicure.
As Tippi put it herself: ‘I really wanted to be of help to these people, and this was such an obvious, wonderful job for them, and it turned out to be much bigger than I expected.’
This new trade for Vietnamese refugees quickly spread across the US and over the pond to the UK, where the practice is booming today.
I spoke to Anna Pham, who was born in a small village near Hanoi, Vietnam, and owns a popular nail salon in Sheffield:
“I came to England 20 years ago, at first to London and then to Sheffield in 2010. When I moved here, I already had an interest in doing nails.”
‘When I was a little girl, I used to wait for the wax to melt off the candles in my house and stick it on to pretend I had very long nails,’ she said.
‘In our community in the UK, everyone knows about nails; everybody’s doing nails. I went to my cousin’s salon in London to see what the nail shop was like and to learn from them.’
Anna explained that it can be stressful as she constantly worries about her business: ‘If I get a complaint, I’m up thinking about it at night, or if there is a problem with my staff, I’m thinking of how I deal with it. It seems calm in the salon, but behind it, there’s a lot of things to do.’
‘The Vietnamese who come here don’t just want to work for others; they dream of opening a salon of their own. Working hard is part of the Vietnamese culture; most people want to succeed and be their own boss.’
Beyond being a success story for Vietnamese immigrants, these salons represent a broader trend of multiculturalism in the beauty industry. Nail salons across the UK are a melting pot of technicians and clients from all over the world.
Anna believes that this cultural diversity is what makes the industry so unique: ‘We learn from each other. Different styles, different ways of doing nails.’ Clients bring in ideas from their home countries, and we use this and make something new.’
With the nail industry continuing to thrive, it stands as an example of how immigration and multiculturalism contribute to local economies, creativity, and community life in the UK
Manicure Evolution and Black Culture
While Vietnamese immigration and hard work drove the popularity and industry of nail salons, the modern trends in nails and nail art are undoubtedly due to the innovation of black women.
Think back to icons such as Diana Ross, Missy Elliott, and Janet Jackson, who were rocking long acrylic nails and nail art before it became fashionable; they made statement nails a thing before they were trending on TikTok.
Styles pioneered by the Black community, including acrylic nails, stiletto shapes, and intricate designs, are now seen everywhere, are loved by celebs and stylists alike, and have made their way into UK trends. But the credit rarely goes where its due, and often there is no proper recognition of the black woman who inspired them.
My nail artist, Amira Ajinaja, is seriously talented (just look at my nails!). She moved from Nigeria when she was 15 and got into doing nails as a creative outlet. She shared her thoughts on the UKs attitude toward black girls and their nails;
“If Kylie Jenner’s nails go viral, people want to imitate her design. They’ll even name the style after her and I’ll have people asking, ‘Can we get the Kylie nails?’ Whereas if it’s a black person, it’s just seen as a style and a trend, nothing more,” Amira said.
“I’ve had black clients get long nails, and they get asked by people how they can do things with ‘those nails.’. It’s as if people automatically assume she must not have a job or responsibilities and that’s why she can have long nails.’
Hearing this made me frustrated. As a white woman who gets long nails with eccentric art, I’ve never once been questioned or patronised over them—only ever complimented.
Historically, black women have faced criticism for their nail choices, especially in the workplace.
“White women get people admiring their nails; it’s seen as her looking after herself, but with black girls it’s seen as ghetto,” Amira explained.
I also spoke to beauty industry expert Joy Adu-Boateng, who explained how this is part of a wider issue of cultural appropriation in the United Kingdom.
‘We see this all the time in creative industries; black style is ignored by the masses until it is popularised by white people; only then does it become viewed as desirable.’
‘The nail industry is no different. Black women set the standards and start the trends but don’t always get the acknowledgement or the business opportunities that come with them.’
Mrs Abu Boateng also explained how this double standard that exists in the nail industry also links to the stereotype of black girls being loud and tacky.
‘If a black girl has these long, bold nails on, it can be seen as unrefined, and she is often viewed as lacking class because of her stylistic choice. A white woman with the same set of nails is more likely to be praised for being edgy and fashion-forward. It’s frustrating.
The nail industry’s evolution is deeply intertwined with black culture, but the pioneers and icons behind the nails are still victims of bias and a lack of respect for their work.
The erasure of Black influence in the nail industry is only one example of a much larger issue that goes beyond the lens of beauty. This pattern plays out across many industries, such as music, fashion, and art. It’s clear that the UK is guilty of undervaluing Black creativity and exploiting it without credit or thought.
As Joy put it, ‘Styles Black girls have donned for years can suddenly become viral and trendy overnight. People are happy to cherry-pick from Black culture when it suits them or it becomes profitable or commercial.’
So next time you go to the salon for a new set of nails (or toes!), think about where and who it came from—it’s the least we can do to appreciate the real trendsetters.
Read more culture stories here.
