With its unique patterns and silhouettes, Scottish clothing is symbolic of the nation and a source of national pride. Animal materials such as wool and leather have been used for millennia to protect celts against the cold winds and long winters.
Textiles to represent family, clan, and status are integral to traditional Scottish fashion; the different patterns and colour schemes used in the iconic tartan prints signify familial clan allegiance.
This practice began during the 18th-century Jacobean wars when people from villages wore similar tartans because they had
access to the same weavers and dyes. While it has become a much more intentional practice, this tradition is still alive today.
Costume maker Lila Hymers, hailing from Glasgow, inspires her garment design from her Scottish heritage.
I quizzed her about the classic pieces: “The kilt is the national dress for Scotland; it is usually made from a single piece of material and is traditionally tailor-made and hand-sewn. A belt holds it up, and you have to wear a sporran or a decorative leather pouch, as the kilt doesn’t have pockets.
I asked her what other garments define Scottish dress.
“Tweed jackets are a big one; they were worn by landowners and gamekeepers, mostly, and especially in the highlands. They are heavy and earthy, designed to blend in with the landscape. Some patterns were made to match the colours of a specific estate.”
She gestures to a rack of garments behind her. “You’ve also got the ghillie shirt, which is a comfortable alternative to the kilt shirt; it’s made from breathable fabrics and laces up at the neck. You’d wear it with a kilt to a ceilidh (a vibrant social gathering focused on music) or any traditional dance.”
And, of course, no traditional outfit is complete without the bonnet. “The Balmoral and the Glengarry are the two most well-known styles,” she explains. “The Glengarry folds flat and has ribbons at the back, while the Balmoral is more rounded. Both are usually finished with a clan badge or feather.”
Lila says designers are starting to play with these pieces more creatively. “You’ll see tartan bucket hats now or cropped tweed blazers. Scottish influence has crept into modern trends; I am seeing tartan skirts being worn over trousers and Scots knitwear on the runway. The materials are often traditional, but the forms are evolving; designers are keeping the identity and reworking it.”
“You can’t separate fashion from history here,” Lila says. “Scottish clothing tells you where you come from, and I love seeing its legacy inspiring fashion globally.”
The evolving nature of Scottish fashion heritage into current trends is a beautiful example of how cultural clothing can be appreciated by all and inspire major fashion houses. Dior’s upcoming Cruise 2025 show at Drummond Castle will spotlight
Scotland’s textile heritage, drawing inspiration from Mary, Queen of Scots. Maria Grazia Chiuri is set to reinterpret tartan, tweed, and Fair Isle lace, collaborating with Scottish textile makers to fuse tradition with modern couture.
The collection will highlight Scotland’s craftsmanship while introducing new ways to wear these iconic fabrics.
Scottish pipers will lead the finale, cementing the deep connection between Scotland and high fashion.
Interested in fashion heritage? Read more HERE
