For decades, slicked edges and dead straight locks promised by £5 tubs of chemical relaxers have been appealing to black women. But with more education, narratives surrounding chemical hair products changed drastically. Yet recently, chemicals which are just as harmful have been recognised in countless afro hair products, from braiding hair to lotions. 

A study by the National Library of Medicine found that several Black hair care products, alongside synthetic hair extensions, contained carcinogenic chemicals. 

Afro hair products that have essentially been embedded into afro hair salons and homes have been silently harming women and girls for decades.

Ifedolapo Olaniyi, a 33-year-old Anti Relaxer advocate, has been encouraging women,n especially mothers, to use safer hair products.

‎“The harmful effects of strong chemicals like perms and relaxers go beyond the physical.

“For instance, they can lead to scalp burns, hair thinning, permanent damage to hair follicles, and even long-term health concerns,” says Ifedolapo.

“Many women are conditioned from a young age to believe that beauty and even professionalism are tied to how closely their features, especially their hair, align with Eurocentric standards.”

Ifedolapo started TARAforkids, an advocacy platform due to her passion for wanting to protect younger girls from these same dangers.

“Permit yourself to unlearn. Your hair journey is not a performance, it’s personal, evolving, and valid. Take small steps: educate yourself, surround yourself with positive hair representations, and seek support from people or communities who celebrate natural beauty. And most importantly, be patient with your hair and with yourself.”

These specific products, alongside relaxers and extensions, include leave-in conditioners and hair oils. 

They have been identified as containing endocrine-disrupting chemicals and potential carcinogens. 

The long-term danger of such chemicals, which has been particularly alarming for women of colour, is their contribution to serious health issues like fibroids and hormone imbalances.

Lorna Jones, a trichologist at Caring for Hair Clinic from London, said: “Everything you put on your scalp it enters your body into your bloodstream.

“There have been some studies on the web that have found different things; some of them found a link to breast cancer, but they’re not conclusive.

“There is more research to be done as there has been a lot of information being given out on social media.”

This issue is rooted in misleading marketing, systemic neglect, and rigid beauty standards still being enforced to this day.

There is also the lack of accountability of Afro hair companies, which also promote products as ‘natural’ or ‘organic’, which is often misleading.

Fundamentally, the root of the wider problem is beauty standards which encourage people to disregard hair health and persist in using such toxic chemicals.

Ndija-Anderson-Yantha, a 41-year-old natural hair advocate and lawyer, has been a safe space for women seeking to nurture their natural hair.

“Overall, my desire is for people with textured hair to be able to embrace and love their curly hair in its natural state

“As much as I advocate for people to embrace and learn more about their natural hair, I want people to feel empowered to make whatever choices they want about their hair without feeling like they are being influenced by society’s standards.”

Her work at The Natural Hair Advocate is the epitome of the awareness raising and education needed in the afro hair community.

“I think we’re becoming increasingly aware now because of social media, but for the longest time, we were in the dark about the harm.

“I actually think that’s part of what precipitated the natural hair movement because people started to do research and learn more about what the chemical makeup of these relaxers is.”

Alongside the impact of eurocentric beauty standards, the lack of transparency and education in black communities is a major contributor. 

Having said that, the role of social media in exposing ingredient toxicity and promoting safer beauty has been a major turning point.

Trichologists and advocates like Ifedolapo, Lorna and Ndija are the influential figures that are slowly eradicating this issue.